Mercerized vesting is either a light or heavy weight cotton wash fabric weighing from 5 to 8 ounces per yard, finished, and is made of one, two or three warps and one or two fillings. When made of one warp and filling, a light weight can be produced in case the warp and filling are both mercerized yarns. The warp for the face of the cloth ranges from 2-20s to 2-60s mercerized cotton, and the filling from l-10s to l-16s cotton. The styles range from granite and basket weave effects in solid white, to the more elaborate figured patterns, such as are created by forming spots on the face of the cloth, from warp effect diamond, cross and curved twill weaves, so arranged as to scatter the design in regular formation, in imitation of jacquard designs.

ADDING WEIGHT.
The extra back warp is for the purpose of adding weight to the fabric, also permitting greater scope in face v eave effects, the idea being to so arrange the face weave as to thoroughly cover the coarse filling, the back warp binding the filling into the cloth, under the figure floats of the face weave. In making a vesting having a back warp, always use a two-ply yarn for this warp, as a single yarn will bead In the weaving, which means a loss of time every few hours in removing same, and the warp will not shed properly when the yarn is beaded, which causes the reed to cut +ih'e yarn. The quickest way to remove the heads from the yarn in the shed is to loosen the top of the reed cap, and lay the reed up on the cloth. The beads may then be either cut off, or drawn through tha reed. If the latter method is used, the beads form a line of small lumps upon the face of the cloth, from one selvedge to the other. While this in itself Is not a serious imperfection, it means that the cloth must be cut at this point.
to remove the lumps, which to a certain extent destroys the utility of the piece in manufacturing the garments. EITHER A DOBBY OR JACQUARD. This fabric can be woven on either the dobhy or jacquard loom. Most of the popular imported jacquard effects can be imitated successfully on the dobby loom, having either single or double box filling motion. It is best adapted to the Knowlas Gem Harness loom, or the Fairmount, 4x1, box loom, having the Ingraham head motion attached. To finish this fabric, the cloth goes from the loom to the measuring machine, after which it is scoured, during which operation the goods are run through a solution of soap and cold water to remove all stains such as mill dirt and grease spots. After washing it is calendered or pressed, and each piece is folded and doubled up in heavy paper and tied with a cheap tape. It is them ready to pack and ship. A style having great vogue in the spring of 1904 was a mixed effect, produced by using an all white mercerized warp, and black mercerized filling, the ground weave being 1 up, 1 down and the figure, small, double-headed triangles.