CHAMBRAY

Chambray is a light-weight, single cloth fabric, that is always woven with a plain weave and always has a white selvedge. It is a staple fabric of many years' standing, being next in the line of cotton goods after the better grades of gingham. In effect it is a cloth having but one color in the warp, and woven with a white filling, this combination producing a solid color effect, the white filling having the chance of reducing any harshness of warp color in the cloth. COMPOSITION. Chambray is composed of one warp and one filling, either all cotton, cot­ton and silk, or all silk. It is made 27 to 30 inches in width and of 1-303 cotton warp to l-60s silk, the count of yarn being governed by the weight per yard desired. The weight' per finished yard is 2 to 3% ounces.

GOOD COLORS for the warp are navy blue, dark brown, pink, lavender, black, nile green, etc. This fabric is woven on any and all plain, looms that will wewe other light-weight cloths, the lightest running looms being the best on account of being easier on the fine warp yarns employed. It can be woven successfully on the Mutual or Fair-mount, Mason, Colvin, Lowell and other roller looms. Chambray, when made of cotton warp and filling, receives a regular gingham finish, and the loom width can be restored to the goods during the finishing by the process of ten-tering. TENTERING means the running of the goods over a machine, fitted underneath with a series of coils of steam pipe; the top of rjhe machine is fitted with an endless chain (on either side). This chain has a row of steel needles-standing erect upon its face. These chains are adjustable. This-permits of altering the space between the chains, the idea being to set the chain the width desired, and as the machine runs, pass the needles through either selvedge, and the cloth is stretched to the width desired. To finish chambray, first run through the sprinkler, then through a solution of warm size, to stiffen the fabric. After the sizing the good's are tentered, to widen and partly dry them, then run through the cylinders to complete drying and last the calender to remove wrinkles, and to produce smooth, evenly ironed finish.