Cotton Wash Fabric. - A tuck fabric is a single cloth and is made by using two or more warps, is generally composed of all cotton, cotton and silk, and all silk, and can be made on any loom having either a dobby or a jacquard attachment, and single or double box, double box looms, of course, giving great scope for filling patterns. A tuck effect in a cloth is a perfect pleat running across the cloth from one selvage to the other and was used extensively a few years ago in making fancy bosoms for men's outing or neglige shirts and ladies' waisting, very elaborate effects being produced by weaving ground cloth in colors either harmonizing with or contrasting to that of the tuck. Two different numbers of filling are used in this fabric, namely, a fine one for the plain ground or flat part of the cloth, and a coarse number for the tuck as the tuck is a filling effect, and the coarse filling causing it to stand out more prominently from the ground fabric than would be the case if fine numbers of filling were used to form the whole fabric. |
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In making a common tuck effect two beams are necessary, also 10 harness or heddle shafts. The top beam containing the tuck warp is drawn in on the 2, 4, 6, 8th harnesses, and the bottom beam, containing ground warp, is drawn on 1, 3, 5, 7th harnesses, the other two harnesses to work independently for selvage, plain weave being used all the time. The harness or head chain Is pegged to work all the harnesses plain weave at the same time for whatever length of plain ground is desired in the cloth being woven. "For example, if you want 40 picks plain ground cloth before weaving" the tuck, simply peg the chain plain weave on all harnesses for 40 picks. Then to form the tuck peg the chain so as to work only tuck harnesses for plain weave, for number picks necessary to give length of tuck desired, the ground harnesses being at rest. While the tuck harnesses are working, the take-up motion is temporarily dispensed with by coupling the take-up finger to a jack in the head motion by running a strap over the top of the loom and down the side. After having woven the desired number of picks to form the tuck, as the loom turns over, all the harnesses are set working plain weave, and as the first pick of the chain operates the head motion, tne take-up finger drops, the take-up motion is again in gear, and the reed beats in, the pick binding the turn and throwing it out from the ground fabric. This fabric is generally made to finish from 2% to 3% ounces and 27 inches wide. |
