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MADRAS

 

Composed of all cotton or cotton and silk, and is a single cloth fabric, having excellent wearing qualities.
It has been on the market for many years and is considered a staple in the cotton goods line. It is a narrow fabric sold at 27 inches width, and is made of varying grades, weighing from two ounces to three ounces per yard, and is used at all seasons of theyear. It is used by the ladies for summer skirts, shirt-wait suits, etc.; by men for shirts, shirt bosoms.and four-in-hand and bow neckties. It is also used as a drapery in workmen's homes for windows, etc
It is known by the plain white ground and fancy colored narrow stripe warp effects and is made of cotton yarns ranging from l-26s to l-80s warp and filling, and from 50 to 100 or more ends per inch. The knowledge of the util­ity of madras being common among most all classes of people, permits of the greatest scope in creating both har­monious and contrasting color and weave combinations, simplicity in col­or arrangement being generally the keynote to success in producing an ele­gant, good-selling line.


COLORS
Those colors most in demand, which have been adapted to this fabric, are rich and delicate shades of blue, rose, green, linen, tan, lavender, ecru and bright red.
For prominent hair line effects use black, navy blue, dark green, royal blue and cherry red. Good fast color is necessary in making madras as it is a wash fabric, the feature of which Is the fine colored stripe effect running warp ways.
If inferior colors are used, they will surely spread during the finishing process, and will cause a clouded stripe where a distinct one was intended, thereby causing a pile of seconds. Ma­dras used in making men's stiff bosom shirts,which retail at $1.50 and upward, in most cases is made entirely with a plain weave.
Sometimes the colored stripe is de­veloped by doubling up in the heddle and reed (by drawing in two or more ends in one heddle, and the threads of several heddles in one split in the reed).
ANOTHER   METHOD.
Another method is td weave the colored warp threadsonother harnesses than those of the body of the cloth, using a twill weave on these harnesses. and by doing so create a perfect cord in the cloth.
High-grade patterns are usually formed by making a plain white stripe from % inch to 1% inches in width, and the colored stripe of 2, 4, 6, 8 ends. In using any of these numbers of ends, the width of the colored Stripe is governed by the fineness of reed, and ' method of drawing through the reed, consistent with the weave effect de­sired.
Madras is usually made on either the old roller loom, or the more modern dobby loom.
Fancy madras is made more success­fully on the dobby loom, 20-harness ca­pacity covering most all comiDinations used in" this line.

 
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